Rural Cape Verde life is relaxed and slow. Cape Verdeans return to their farms on the weekend to take care of their land. Some begin the tedious process of pounding corn to make catchupa, the national dish. pasia is the most popular activity for both young and old.

Guest Post by Cecilia of lovicarious.com.Traditional houses in Paul Valley on the Santo Antao Island of Cape Verde, Africa

What is the Cape Verdean word for passia?

What is passia, it’s the act of loitering in public. It is common to spend hours on the front porch waiting for others to join you for a passia. You walk down the main road at a snails’ pace, greeting each person with “Bom Dia, Tudo Bom?” Or “Good Morning, Everything Well?”

This activity is not intended to be a goal, but rather a way to pass time by watching and interacting with other Cape Verdeans. Passia ends when you find another activity that is more enjoyable.

I decided to go for a walk on a Sunday morning. I picked up my book and started my descent along the main road to town. As I walked along the cobblestone paths, I said hello to those I passed. Ye was braiding the hair of her granddaughter in front of her house, Antonio, who had just left Nelson’s Market, began the day by drinking a shot of grog and a group young girls were leaving the well of the community with buckets full of water. I found an ideal ledge in the shade of posto sanitario. It will do.

I propped up my feet and opened George Orwell’s The Year of the Cat. I would occasionally pop my head out to check what was going on around me. In the distance I heard a faint voice shouting ” Cavala ” (mackerel). Chida, in his red 1980 pick-up truck, was rounding the corner.Rural Landscape in Cape Verde

A little adventure in rural Cape Verde

Chida, the local fishmonger, is a woman. He goes to Porto Novo every morning, San Antao’s main port and city, to buy fresh fish. He then drives from town to city, selling mackerel or tuna out of a giant cooler on the back of his truck.

He shouts at me when he sees me sitting on the road.

Good morning, Cecilia! What are you doing?

Then I said, “Good Morning! “I am out just for a pasia.”

Let’s get going!

I was not one to miss a chance for an adventure. So, I put my book down and got into the passenger’s seat. We drove to our next stop. Although I didn’t know where it was, I was happy to be along for the ride.

The air conditioning in the vehicle was non-functional, as it was with most cars at that time. The windows were rolled up, allowing a cool summer breeze to blow around the interior of the truck. This brought with it fine dust and other debris. Every bump on the road was felt with precision. The cobblestones produced a rhythmic thd thd while the potholes were more like a great kthump.

The apprentice fishmonger

We drove through the mountains, ribeiras and small towns I’d never seen before. These are places that don’t appear on any map. We continued to shout ” Cavala, the best fish in world!”

We would stop at roadside stalls or markets to deliver a few fish batches for local vendors. We would also enjoy a shot of Strawberry ponche in the market, which is a creamy drink made with sugar cane rum and condensed milk. The texture and color are similar to Pepto-Bismol. However, the taste is delicious. As we were preparing to leave, a person would sometimes hop on the back of the pickup truck and hitch a ride to the next town.

Lunch on the Road

We approached a small village with 3 or 4 homes that had thatched roofs at noon. A herd of goats and free-range chickens were bleating politely as they walked across the street. Our lunch stop was here. Chida brought out 3 fishes from the cooler, which we immediately fried and served with our Cachupa bowl. For dessert, our host served us fresh goat cheese. Fresh cheese was unlike any other I’ve ever tasted. The mild sweetness of the cream, combined with the coarse salt, explodes in your mouth. Incredible!

Cape Verdean adventure day ends

We finished our journey by 2 PM. Chida, who was a fishmonger’s apprentice at the time, left me a bag full of fish when she pulled up to my Ribeira das patas door. Of course, I was grateful for the experience but fresh mackerel would be a welcome treat. I was covered in fish odor and dust when I entered the building.

Smells and sounds are also linked to memories, according to some. The day I hitchhiked in Cape Verde with Cape Verdean people will remain etched in my memory forever.